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Beolover SyncDrive: DC Platter Motor Replacement for Beogram 4002 and 4004 (Type 551x and 552x)

Late Beogram 4002 and the 4004 (Types 551x and 552x), which have DC platter motors instead of the earlier synchronous AC motors usually suff...

Thursday, January 25, 2018

Beomaster 6000 (2702) restoration: first evaluation (outside)



This is what I like to call “Discovery Day” ! You never know what to expect when you examine a unit more closely, open it up to have a look inside and off course when you turn it on the first time! It’s always good however to check a few things before you “release the power” to the unit. Especially the power supply PCB’s and the output darlington transistors. Neglecting this and you may end up with some bad smells, some smoke and maybe a nice pair of cufflinks marked MJ2501….MJ3001 !



First some more details on the outside of the unit and the defaults. A small dent in the wood plinth is apparent on the front right. Not much to worry about, but it needs to be addressed. Some glue was used to reattach the steel front plate as well around the big FM dial wheel.






 The aluminium plates are dirty and yellowish. Some good cleaning should take care of this. 


At the back, 2 screws are missing (left and right). These screws are attached to a small subframe inside to fix the black grill over the output transistors. Nothing broken, just replace the screws.   


The main power cord is also cut and extended with a different one.  


The stand underneath the unit is fixed with some sort of epoxy glue. Not sure why because it does not seem to be broken.



One of the speaker sockets has lost a wing. The others seem to be ready to fall of as well. A typical phenomenon on older equipment. The plastic gets fragile and breaks when pushing in de speaker terminals. The other DIN5 sockets seem to be OK.



To open the unit, one needs to remove the wood plinth first and release the dial wheel. The latter is done by removing the small 3mm nut underneath. It appears that this nut is not the original one. It should be a self locking nut. Also, the retainer clip that holds the dial shaft in place is missing. The bearing is also damaged due to a prior attempt to remove it probably.  






So far, nothing really to worry about. These defaults can all be repaired fairly easy. I also noted a sticker on the unit from a repair shop in Denmark. It shows the name of the shop (apparently does not exist anymore) and a repair number. 



That probably explains the missing screws, the glue, the wrong nut on the dial wheel shaft, etc. I'm sure more will be revealed after open the unit ! But that is for a next blog.
























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